Amigurumi
Stuffed shapes worked in the round, from the magic ring to safety eyes.
Amigurumi is single crochet worked in a spiral, tightly, so the stuffing does not show through. That is the whole technique. The shaping comes from increasing and decreasing in a set rhythm, and once you can work a ball you can work almost any animal, because every animal is balls and tubes stuck together.
The one thing that separates good amigurumi from lumpy amigurumi is hook size. You go down, not up. Worsted yarn that asks for a 5.0 mm hook wants a 3.5 mm for amigurumi. The fabric should feel stiff and slightly unpleasant to work. That stiffness is what holds the shape.
Start with a ball. Then a ball with ears.
Learn the shape first
These four build in order and each one takes an evening.
- The magic ring, how to make one that never slips open
- What is amigurumi, the craft explained in five minutes
- 16 patterns perfect for your first attempt
- 10 no-sew patterns for people who hate sewing pieces together
Then pick a creature
Grouped by what they teach you as much as what they look like.
- Bunnies, ears are the first shaping challenge worth having
- Octopus, curly legs, and the free pattern everyone starts with
- Cats and dogs, where colour changes come in
- Dinosaurs, spikes and the first time you sew on many small pieces
- Frog, the free design that took over social media
Hook and yarn pairing
Every size below assumes a tight fabric with no visible gaps. If you can see stuffing, go down another half millimetre.
| Yarn weight | Hook | Finished height | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| DK | 2.5 to 3.0 mm | 10 to 14 cm | Detail, small features |
| Worsted | 3.0 to 3.5 mm | 15 to 20 cm | The standard, most patterns |
| Chunky | 4.5 to 5.0 mm | 25 to 35 cm | Fast, forgiving, good for gifts |
| Cotton DK | 2.5 mm | 10 to 14 cm | Sharpest stitch definition |
Safety eyes are not safe for children under three, whatever the packet says. The washer can be worked loose. For a baby or toddler toy, embroider the eyes in black yarn. It takes five extra minutes and removes the problem entirely.
Stuffing, which is most of the difference
Under-stuffed amigurumi sags and looks sad. Over-stuffed amigurumi splits at the seams and the stuffing shows through. Aim for firm, and add it in small pinches rather than large handfuls, pushing each one into the far corners with the blunt end of a hook.
Stuff as you go, not at the end. Once the opening is down to about two centimetres you cannot reach the bottom of the piece any more, and a head that is soft at the crown and firm at the neck is the usual result.
Questions
What yarn is best for amigurumi?
Worsted cotton or a smooth worsted acrylic. Cotton gives the crispest stitch definition, acrylic is cheaper and more forgiving. Avoid anything fluffy, it hides the shaping entirely.
What hook size for amigurumi?
Roughly one and a half millimetres smaller than the yarn band suggests. For worsted that means 3.0 to 3.5 mm. The fabric should feel too stiff.
How do I stop holes appearing in my amigurumi?
Go down a hook size. Holes mean the fabric is too loose for the stuffing behind it, and no amount of careful stuffing fixes a gauge that is too open.
Do I work amigurumi in rounds or a spiral?
A spiral, with a stitch marker moved up each round. Joined rounds leave a visible seam running up the piece.
How much stuffing does one toy take?
A 20 cm toy takes about 50 grams. Buy more than you think, running out halfway through is the most common interruption.
Why does my amigurumi lean to one side?
The increases are stacking. Most patterns space them so they spiral; if yours sit directly above each other you get a visible seam and a lean. Offset each round by one stitch.
Patterns for this section are on the way.